發(fā)現(xiàn)城市之旅?Spring?into?History:?A?Walking?Tour?of?Shenyang
沈陽國際俱樂部（ICS ) 的24名外籍女會員聚在一起，參加了一次沈陽城市的探索之旅。這既是一次了解城市的過程也是一次發(fā)現(xiàn)自己的機(jī)會。
24 expat women of the International Club Shenyang ( ICS ) came together to learn more about their city and themselves on a walking tour of Shenyang
清晨，一群娘子軍“探險(xiǎn)者”在懶蜂窩國際青年旅舍門口集合——我們是來自8個(gè)不同國家的老外。我們湊在一起參加這次短途旅行，期待去發(fā)現(xiàn)沈陽不曾被留意的美麗。簡單拍照過后，我們準(zhǔn)備出發(fā)。沈陽的春天，還有點(diǎn)冷，道路兩邊的樹枝才剛剛發(fā)芽，導(dǎo)游領(lǐng)著我們來到了這次行程的第一站。
On a crisp morning, a group of adventurers gathered inside the sunny rooms of the Lazy Bee International Youth Hostel. Our group consisted of women from at least 8 different countries. We had all come together to explore our city and meet new people along the way.After a quick photo shoot, we headed out into the bustling city streets for a morning of exploration. Our guide led us down streets lined with budding trees as we made our way to the first stop on our journey.
失敗書店
Wall and Water Bookshop （Photo by ICS member）
對于旅居在沈陽的歪果仁來說，失敗書店真是個(gè)秘密花園。這里小巧舒適，書架上擺放著許多中文，英文，法文以及德文的書籍。我們邊看書邊喝著熱乎乎的咖啡，陽光從大大的落地窗透過，這感覺太美了！真希望不久能再次回到這來。
The Wall and Water Multi-Linguistic Reading Room is a treasure trove for book loving expats in Shenyang. Its shelves are lined with classics in Mandarin, English, French, and German just ready to be devoured by those who visit. A relaxed and cozy atmosphere of coffee, wide windows, and plenty of classic books made this an exciting find for everyone. I hope to come back and enjoy some quiet reading with a mug of hot coffee very soon.
失敗書店
Wall and Water Bookshop
簡單休息過后，我們繼續(xù)行程，一路上有很多舊時(shí)東北軍高級將領(lǐng)的公館，我們不時(shí)停下來感嘆這些故居的奇妙精致。如今，這些建筑大多數(shù)被政府所用。不得不推薦一下我們的導(dǎo)游，他的知識非常淵博，這些公館背后的故事就像放電影一樣被他娓娓道來。
From there we continued our trek, stopping frequently to admire the former villas of Dongbei’s most powerful warlords. Many of these opulent homes have now been repurposed for government use. Our guide was able to provide us with interesting details about the powerful men. Our knowledgeable guide made history come alive for us as he explained the stories behind many of Shenyang’s older structures.
左：湯公館茶樓（舊湯玉麟公館），右上：沈陽物資集團(tuán)（舊張壽懿公館），右下：民盟遼寧省委（舊張作相公館）
Photo Collage of the Warlord Villas
下圖的建筑是日本人1921年修建的。以前是日本殖民者的浪速女子中學(xué)，現(xiàn)在是沈陽第二十中學(xué)。這近百年，有多少學(xué)生在里面學(xué)習(xí)，外面的世界又發(fā)生了怎樣天翻地覆的變化，我不禁胡思亂想一番。
The Japanese built this building pictured below in 1921. It originally served as a school for Japanese girls. In the present day, it is a Chinese middle school. I loved thinking of the many students that have walked its halls over the years and how the world has changed beyond its walls.
沈陽第二十中學(xué)
Chinese Middle School/Former Japanese Girls School
如今繁華擁擠的和平大街當(dāng)年竟然是中國和日本勢力的分界線，大家都被這個(gè)事實(shí)所驚訝！站在馬路中間，看著川流不息的車輛，你絕對想象不到，在1905至1931年間，馬路的右側(cè)是中國統(tǒng)治區(qū)，而左側(cè)則是日本租界。
I think the entire group was surprised to learn while crossing Heping Street that the now traffic-clogged road once served as the border between China and Japan. Standing in the middle of the busy street today, you would never believe that in the 1900’s it served as a border between the lands controlled by the two warring countries. In the picture below the right side of the road was occupied by Chinese forces, while the left side of the road marked the beginning of the Japanese border.
和平大街
Heping St. former Border
我們一邊朝中山廣場走，一邊欣賞當(dāng)年由日本人設(shè)計(jì)建造的這些老街道。如果沒有參加這次活動(dòng)，我一定想不到沈陽還有這樣一塊地方，和這個(gè)城市其他的地區(qū)如此的不同，無論社會怎樣變遷，依舊保留當(dāng)年的影子。沈陽突然變得生動(dòng)立體，她有著自己獨(dú)特的過去，值得你花時(shí)間好好去了解她。
As we approached Zhongshan Square, we stopped to admire the architecture of this Japanese designed street. Without this tour, I might never have stopped to think about the slight variances found here compared to the rest of Shenyang. This tour showed me that Shenyang is alive with its own unique past if you can just take the time to slow down and notice it.
北五馬路
Beiwu Malu Street
沈陽街邊小吃
Street food（ photo by ICS member）
我們不時(shí)被街邊誘人的小吃和精美的歷史建筑所吸引，走走停停。好不容易才走到了中山廣場，終于可以一睹傳聞中“世界上最大的毛主席全身塑像”了。塑像建于1969年文革時(shí)期。作為中國歷史的見證，它矗立在廣場中心。對于我們來說，這是拍照的好地點(diǎn)，姑娘們呼啦一下，紛紛跳上臺階凹造型拍照留念。
After stopping to admire some street food and more elaborate and historical buildings, we finally arrived at Zhongshan Square to view the largest statue of Mao Zedong in the world. The statue was built in 1969 during the Cultural Revolution in China. It stands in the middle of the square as a testament to China’s history, as well as a popular spot for photos. Our group wasted no time jumping up on the steps to pose.
毛澤東塑像
Statue of Mao Zedong （ photo from internet )
中山廣場
ZhongShan Square （Photo by ICS member）
中山廣場周邊的建筑大都建于上世紀(jì)30年代之前。離中國醫(yī)科學(xué)院不遠(yuǎn)的是原日本關(guān)東軍司令部（編者按：現(xiàn)大樓由盛京銀行和沈陽總工會合用）… 每一座建筑都有故事，而最出名的是大和旅館（編者按：現(xiàn)遼寧賓館）。旅館就在塑像正前方，我們非常有幸能夠進(jìn)到里面參觀，據(jù)說毛主席曾在這住過一晚。我站在陽臺，望著整個(gè)廣場，想象著沈陽以及中國這些年的巨大變遷。
The buildings surrounding the square were all built before the late of 1920’s. The former headquarters of the Japanese Kwantung army stands near the historical Chinese Academy of Medicine building, both representing different periods of Shenyang’s history. The most prominent building, the famous Yamato Hotel where the chairman once stayed the night, stands directly in front of his statue. Our group was allowed to tour the lavish hotel and to see the room where Mao Zedong stayed. As I stood on the balcony overlooking the square I felt like I was looking down on the years of China’s many powerful leaders hustling past like the cars on the streets below.
從遼寧賓館陽臺看到中山廣場全景
Yamato Hotel Balcony View of Zhongshan Square
我們以一頓美味的韓餐結(jié)束了當(dāng)天的旅程。對于沈陽和她的歷史我有了新的認(rèn)識，相信不僅是我，每一位團(tuán)友都有很多想要分享。強(qiáng)烈推薦所有對沈陽文化歷史感興趣的人，以及所有生活在東北的人，來參加“城市之旅”這個(gè)活動(dòng)?？靵韴?bào)名下次活動(dòng)吧！別忘了帶著你的相機(jī)，穿一雙舒服的鞋，以一顆好奇的心，來發(fā)現(xiàn)和探索。你絕對想不到你會發(fā)現(xiàn)什么。
The tour concluded with a delicious Korean lunch where the group was able to reflect of all that we had seen and heard during our busy morning. I had a new appreciation for the beauty and history of Shenyang after participating in the tour and I felt lucky to be able to experience it with my fellow expats. I would highly recommend the tour to anyone interested in learning more about Shenyang and the people who call Dongbei home. Join the next tour group and don’t forget to bring along your walking shoes, camera, and an inquisitive mind. You never know what secrets your city may hold.
作者自述 About Writer:
我是來自美國的 Cheyanne Lovellette ，我喜歡旅游，烘焙，寫作，徒步和讀書。我擁有TESOL的碩士學(xué)位，并很享受教中國朋友說英語的的過程。目前，我和我的丈夫Sean還有小貓Hagrid生活在沈陽。
My name is Cheyanne Lovellette and I'm an American expat who loves traveling, baking, writing, hiking, and reading. I have a master's degree in TESOL and enjoy teaching English to Chinese speakers. I live in Shenyang with my husband Sean and my cat Hagrid.
關(guān)于城市之旅‘CityTour’活動(dòng)，請聯(lián)系失敗書店店主潘赫（微信號：kaantata）
For more information of 'CityTour', please contact with PanHe, the owner of Wall and Water Bookshop（Wechat ID: kaantata）
***
文字及圖片作者：Cheyanne Lovellette
Written&Photo by Cheyanne Lovellette
封面圖片：張博文
Cover Photo by Bowen
圖文編輯：Sophie
Edited by Sophie
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